A transcription of the diary I kept while traveling in Spain in the summer of 2003.

19 July 2003

Pamplona - more exploring

Either I wasn't as tired last night as I was the night before, or there was more noise outside (being Friday night). I tried earplugs, but couldn't get them to work, and didn't get to sleep until the wee hours.

I woke up late, when it was already getting hot, and set off to follow the trail of the bulls, from their corral to the Plaza de Toro. (Wearing shoes this time, still using the stick, and, later, when I left the city I put on my wide-brim hat, so I was only missing a cockle shell to look like a real peregrina.)

Then the traditional Spanish breakfast of a cafe con leche and a pastry, followed by a lunch of an ice cream sandwich, and down to the river to pick up the pilgrim trail.

I crossed the River Arga one way on a new pedestrian bridge (with steps, no handrails, bends, with gaps between the sections - very pretty, but would never fly in the States) then downstream a bit to re-cross on the old medieval footbridge.

Then followed el camino along the ramparts, up through a medieval gate and into the old city. We crossed the route of the enciero (so pilgrims must be delayed in the mornings during San Fermin). And then to the Albergue at San Saturnino (closed). There I lost the trail, and circled around a bit before I picked it up again. Then we left the old city, and passed into the Pargue de la Ciudadela, passing below the ramparts (so once again outside of the medieval city.)

I left the camino there, cut back through the ciudadela, and then to the Pargue de la Taconeia where another section of the ramparts are preserved, this time with a mini nature preserve in the moat.

42 degrees. 40 / 5 = 8 x 8 = 64 + 32 = 96

Down in the flat land across the Rio Arga are the truck farms and the pastures. There are bike trails there too, going God knows where, and tennis courts and swimming pools. People from the hill part of town walk down the hill to recreate, then put their wraps on over their bathing suits and walk back up. People from the apartments on the flats go the opposite way to go shopping in the 'big city'.

The walk signs have tones, that speed up noticeably when about to change. Pedestrians regularly cross against the light when it's clear, and cars are allowed to turn right on red, so long as they yield to peds. Any motorist who fails to yield gets a finger wagged at him, while peds who misjudge get honked at. And there's a healthy pause between the light turning red and the walk sign turning on.

My hotel room has a double set of casement windows, just as my dorm room in Leningrad did, although I suspect that these are meant to keep out the heat, rather than the cold.

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